Replacement (insert) windows fit inside your existing window frame — the original frame stays in place and a new window unit is fitted within it. New construction (full-frame) windows involve removing the entire existing frame down to the studs and installing a completely new window system. Insert installation is faster and cheaper; full-frame allows for resizing and full structural replacement.

Full-frame (new construction) installation costs roughly 40–60% more than insert installation for the same number of windows. A 5–10 window insert project typically runs $6,000–$15,000; the same project as full-frame runs $10,000–$22,000. Per-window, inserts are $700–$1,400 installed while new construction windows are $1,200–$2,500+.

If you're replacing siding, doing windows in the same project is almost always the smarter financial and structural choice. Siding removal exposes the window frame, allows for proper flashing and waterproofing, and lets you do full-frame replacement at significantly lower marginal labor cost. Doing them separately means paying for some of the same work twice. Learn more about our siding services →

Insert (replacement) window installation typically takes 1–2 days for an average home. Full-frame (new construction) installation typically takes 3–5 days because the existing frame must be removed, the rough opening prepared, new flashing installed, and exterior trim or siding integrated. Larger homes or specialty configurations can extend either timeline.

No. Insert installation uses the existing opening — the size and shape stay the same. If you want to enlarge openings, convert a double-hung to a picture window, or add a bay or bow combination, you need full-frame (new construction) installation. Expect a structural cost adder of $1,000–$3,000+ per opening depending on what's involved.

Solid frames with no soft spots, no visible rot, and no major water staining are good candidates for inserts. Frames that feel spongy when pressed, show rust around fasteners, or have peeling paint on the interior may have hidden damage that should be addressed with full-frame replacement. A free in-home assessment will inspect each opening individually.

Brick exteriors add complexity and cost. Cutting through brick to enlarge an opening is technically possible but expensive and structurally invasive. Full-frame installation in brick walls is more costly than vinyl-sided homes because of the careful work required around the masonry opening. Insert installation is often preferred for brick homes when frames are sound.

Stucco is labor-intensive to remove and repair, with a higher risk of cracking during the work. New construction installation in stucco homes significantly increases cost compared to vinyl-sided homes. If you're considering windows on a stucco home, ask your installer about scope — the right approach depends on the stucco condition and whether you're also planning stucco remediation.

Extension jambs fill the gap between the new window frame and the interior wall surface. They're commonly required with new construction (full-frame) installation, especially in homes with thick walls or custom interior finishes. Standard jamb extensions are typically included or minimal-cost; stained, wood-finish, or custom trim packages add to the project total.

Flashing is a waterproof barrier installed around window and door openings to direct water away from the wall system. It's installed across sills, jambs, and headers, and integrated with the home's weather-resistant barrier. Proper flashing is what separates a window that lasts 30+ years from one that develops hidden water damage in 5–10 years.

Yes. Section R703.4 (and R703.8 in newer editions) of the International Residential Code (IRC) requires flashing at all exterior openings to prevent moisture from entering the wall system. Specific flashing details vary by jurisdiction. Reputable installers in PA, NJ, and DE follow IRC requirements and integrate flashing with house wrap to create a continuous weather-resistant barrier.

Permit requirements depend on the township. Standard like-for-like insert replacement often does not require a permit. Full-frame installation, enlarging openings, structural modifications, or egress window installation typically do require permits and inspections. Exteriors by Global Home handles permitting across PA, NJ, and DE jurisdictions when required.

Under the International Residential Code, basement bedrooms must have an emergency escape and rescue opening — a minimum 5.7 square feet net clear opening (5.0 sq ft at grade), with at least 20 inches of width, 24 inches of height, and a maximum sill height of 44 inches from the floor. If you're converting a basement to living space, egress windows are typically required and almost always involve full-frame installation.

Full-frame installation requires removing the existing interior trim and may disturb a small amount of drywall around the opening. A professional installer will protect interior surfaces, replace trim cleanly, and patch any disturbed drywall as part of the scope. Reputable contractors include this finish work in the quote — confirm what's included before signing.

Yes, and it's common. Many projects use inserts on most openings where frames are sound and full-frame on specific openings that need resizing, have damaged frames, or are part of a siding integration. A good in-home estimate evaluates each window individually rather than applying one approach across the whole house.

Yes. Marvin manufactures purpose-built Infinity insert windows for retrofit installation and full-frame new construction windows for siding integration and structural replacement. Both use the same Ultrex fiberglass material and carry the same Limited Lifetime Warranty. Your installer will spec the appropriate product for each opening. For pricing detail, see our Fiberglass Cost Guide.

Professional installation includes: a level and plumb installation in the rough opening, proper insulation behind the frame (typically low-expansion foam), a fully integrated flashing system at sill / jambs / head, weather-resistant barrier tie-in, proper exterior caulking, and clean interior trim. Cutting corners on any of these creates drafts, leaks, and shortens window life.

Because installing windows and siding in the same project lets you do full-frame replacement without paying twice for the same labor. The siding has to come off for full-frame, the flashing has to be redone, and the exterior has to be re-finished — all of which are already happening during a siding project. Combining the two often saves 20–30% versus doing them sequentially.